CDT: Glacier National Park, MT

I LOVE THIS WORLD!!!

I love the rain. I love the cold. I love the wind. I love this life. It’s hard to explain the joy of being blasted by cold knockdown winds going up a mountain pass and then having the vista open up into a whole new world as you peek over the top. It’s got to the point where I have a hard time sleeping indoors. The woods are my home now. Every day the trail brings more magic, more surprises, and more joy.

As you might remember, I decided to bounce up north and go SoBo (south bound) after getting my biscuits burned by the snows in The Wind River Range in Wyoming. Going SoBo gave time for the snows to melt while still getting the miles in. Getting to Glacier National Park was a combination of yogi’ing (basically chatting w folks and asking for a ride after you’ve convince them you’re not an ax murderer), a car rental, an Uber, and a lot of hitchhiking. You meet the best folks hitchhiking. You rarely get picked up by anyone driving a nice fancy car. Most of your hitches will be in old beat up pick up trucks or beater vans or cars with broken windshields. It seems that folks without very much are the most generous to share what they do have. I was picked up by a family from the Blackfeet Tribal Nation and it was so great chatting about their life, bumping fists, and having the dad ask me to call him Paint and me asking him to call me Two Forks. I was picked up and driven all the way to the Canadien border, 40 miles out of his way, by a Blackfeet spiritual singer songwriter talking about the universe and having him call me his brother and give me his phone number.

No I’m not done. ~1000 miles down with ~2000 miles to go.

At the Canadian border, the customs agent was nice enough to come out and snap a picture of me. My permits for Glacier were to start at the Chief Mountain Trailhead. Apparently there was a deer carcass on the trail on the Waterton route which was likely to attract a lot of bears so there were some trail closures and we were directed to the alternate starting point.

Within the first couple hours of walking, the Belly Trail, I met a group of high school girls and their guide who had been put out for four days in Glacier. The only wildlife they had seen were a few ground squirrels and a deer. That wasn’t so encouraging. I was hoping to see at least a goat or a sheep or even a marmot. Within 10 minutes, I saw my first grizzly bear about 200-300 yards away across a sunny meadow. That was great until it was clear that the grizzly bear saw me too and galloped full speed right at me. Holy crap!!!! In slow motion I was reviewing in my head the video that the back country rangers made us watch of what to do to keep the grizzly from clawing your intestines out once it knocked you down. As it bounded closer and closer, I pulled out my bear spray. As it got even closer, off came the safety and I aimed it at his head with my finger on the trigger. And then, suddenly, as he got close, he just rounded up, spun around, and bounced away just as fast as he had come. Wow, I was just bluff charged by a grizzly bear!!! By the time I came to my senses, dug my phone out, took off the wide angle lens, turned the phone on, found the camera app, and took a picture, the bear was a dot in the distance.

A grizzly bear or is that Bigfoot?

At that point I realized, that this trip through Glacier was going to be really great.

Glacier was beautiful. 6 easy days of bears, elk, deer, moose, mountain goats, big horn sheep, waterfalls, snowy passes, glacial lakes, and big sky vistas.

Grizzly front paw print.

Ground squirrel

Elizabeth Lake

Bull moose in Elizabeth Lake

Trails were easy to follow

Elk does

In some areas, the trail felt like a city park.

On hike to Atlantic Creek

Deer digging for dinner near Many Glacier. I saw one tourist almost mace a deer that was in the trail peacefully feeding on grass.

So many waterfalls in Glacier

Red Gap Pass

Red Gap Pass

Yes, it’s snowing.

Marshall at Piegan Pass

Blake and Marshall on Piegan Pass

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Victoria Falls

Filtering water on Red Eagle Lake

Red Eagle Lake

Triple Divide Pass

Walk to Triple Divide Pass

View out of privy at the Morningstar Campsite.

Seven Winds of the Lake

Pitamakan Pass from Dawson Pass Trail

Walk from Two Medicine to East Glacier

Big Horn Sheep Mama

….and her baby

Walk to East Glacier

8 thoughts on “CDT: Glacier National Park, MT

  1. You literally scared the heck out of me with that story of the grizzly charging you. Yikes!!

    I always say this about you but I have to mention it once again, your photos are fabulous, just absolutely amazing.

    Stay safe and enjoy!!

    • Thanks!!! You just drop your camera around here and you get a good photo. I’m just finishing up The Bob Marshall Wilderness and should be in a The Scapegoat shortly. Haven’t seen a grizzly bear in a few days but still seeing black bears.

  2. Wow! That was too much with the grizzly! What a fantastic story! I can’t get over how beautiful it is!

  3. Amazing story and picture. You have become one with the wilderness Charlie. Keep soaking it up and sharing it with us 🙂

  4. Just catching up on your WY and MT adventures. Sounds like you’ve been very creative in your hiking plan adaptations! Glacier NP looks fantastic!
    Remember, keep at least 50′ back from those bears. So the next time you see one, pull out your tape measure, hand the bear one end, and then back away until … 😉
    Keep safe. Lovin’ the pics! Thanks so much for your continued blog efforts and pics!

    • Thanks David! Many bears actually get a bit nervous generally if you’re closer than about 100 yards. You’re just hoping that they are not having a grumpy day. Thanks for reading. Hope that you’re having a good summer.

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