This next stretch of trail consisted of a whole heck of a lot of road walking. Most folks were choosing to take the alternative route called the Cibola Alternate to get to Grants. Part of this was because the water sources on the official CDT were sketchy and very far apart with such descriptions as “water tastes metallic with a slight urine aftertaste”. Ummm… no thank you. As the Cibola route involved a lot of walking on paved highway, I mixed it up by starting with the Cibola, taking the Narrow Rim Canyon Trail, then back onto the Cibola, crossing the El Malpais, then taking the Bonita-Zuni Alternate into Grants (phew). Still lots of road walking but at least mostly on low traffic dirt forest roads at the cost of a bunch of extra miles. After watching both Smooth and Breakcheck almost get hit (within 2 feet) by some reckless out of lane idiot), I was glad to get away from the traffic.
While looking for a place to camp, Southbound and a few other thru hikers accidentally scared up a herd of elk which crossed in front of me.
https://mountain-boy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/img_8168.movI couldn’t convince anyone to cross the El Malpais (The Badlands) with me. It seems they knew better as you were walking over rough lava rock for 8 miles. It was very rough going especially solo and was constantly having to backtrack as it was very easy to get lost. Many of the cairns had been put up by the ancient Puebloan people hundreds of years ago and the path was not even close to following a straight line. It took 3 1/2 hours to get through along with some help from my ibuprofen bottle. I found out later that most people took even longer. It was beautiful and frustrating at the same time. I was glad that I did it but also glad it was over.
Grants NM is really spread out and I was not looking forward to the 2-3 miles off trail walk to get to my hotel. Fortunately, Coyote and his dad saw me and had rented a car. More trail magic!!!! They drove me right to my hotel (Super 8 next to the Walmart). Thru hiking has been a reaffirmation for me of how kind and generous people are across this country.
So I decided to take a zero in Grants to give the tendinitis in my ankle a chance to heal up a little. Off to get some more ice. Tomorrow I’m off to climb Mt Taylor which is the highest mountain in New Mexico at over 11,000′. The snows and storms today at only 7000′ had driven a lot of hikers to hitch into town today so the high mountains should be interesting. Tomorrow is 4000′ feet of climbing, high winds forecast, 25+ mile day with a big mountain at the end and a post holing finish in deep snow off the north side of the mountain. Embrace the brutality and welcome to the CDT 🙂
Two Forks,
I’m really excited (and terribly envious) for you hiking this trail.
I forgot what a skilled photographer you are. I’m sure you won’t read this until after your big day tomorrow but I still wish you good luck and am sending you good vibes.
Lava hiking huh? Insane.
Happy trails.
Thanks Andy! I’ll be heading out shortly. Was never good at getting out of town early. You’ve always been more disciplined than me and would be crushing this. Discipline is what gets you north.
Be careful Charlie! Great update thanks are wonderful pics and description of your journey so far.
Thanks Ellen! It’s easy to get good pics though when the landscape is so beautiful. Hope you have a nice summer.
Mt Taylor is one of the traditional boundaries of the Dineteh.
You are amazing!
Enjoying the updates. Awesome pictures! 536 miles in 21 days, that’s 25.5 miles/day!
Shared some pics and your status with Andy W. who put your status in a couple slides for today’s all-hands company meeting. We’re cheering you on!
That’s awesome! Thanks 🙂 I’m in Cuba (New Mexico) right now but plan to head out in the morning. I caught full on winter conditions over Mt Taylor (high winds, drifting snow, ….) a few days ago and expect to be in snow tomorrow. Viper reported snow up to his knees and postholing for miles above about 8000’ in the section just up ahead. Starting tomorrow, it’s going to get interesting.